Hed Mayner's Twisted Tailoring Set to Hit Florence
The crop of designers invited to guest-show at this week's edition of Pitti Uomo is diverse and creative, each with a unique approach to menswear.
Rooted in menswear classicism and sartorial references, their creative processes often venture into unexpected and experimental territory, marking a departure from traditional norms.
Among them, the Paris-based, Israeli-born designer Hed Mayner is set to captivate Florence with his men's fall 2026 show. He has garnered acclaim and the prestigious Karl Lagerfeld Prize at the 2019 LVMH Prize for Young Designers for his gender-fluid designs that play with proportions and layering.
Mayner's penchant for twisted tailoring stems from his obsession with the human form, seeking to mold it according to his vision while maintaining the credibility and wearability of his creations.
In an interview, Mayner shared, 'My work is deeply connected to the men's world and its classical elements. My process involves stretching and blurring these notions into something new.'
Pitti Uomo, renowned as the mecca of menswear traditionalism, provides an ideal platform for Mayner's subverted iterations, offering an unusual perspective on the fair.
Mayner's collections are characterized by their lack of articulate narratives, aligning with the principles of deconstructivism. Instead, they focus on form and silhouettes, exploring the idea of identity and its blurring.
'My work is always about identity and its fluidity,' Mayner explained. 'It's more about the mood and how people look, weaving a story through it. It's about the form, its purity, and how it transforms the body, giving it a new attitude.'
Mayner's approach to form is central to his creations. He believes that by working on it, he shapes not only the silhouette but also the wearer's character.
The venue for his show, the Palazzina Reale di Santa Maria Novella, a 1930s brutalist marble building in Florence, adds to the uniqueness of the event. Originally built for the Italian royal family, the building's proximity to the train station and bustling streets will provide an engaging experience for passersby.
Mayner's collection showcases sculpturally rounded silhouettes in a rich, muted palette of browns, navy blues, grays, and occasional vibrant pops of color, including purple, Klein blue, flashy green, and mirror silver.
'The shapes and silhouettes are closely connected to the body, more so than ever before,' Mayner noted. 'I've brought the body to the forefront, using tailoring to highlight each part individually.'
Proportions in the collection are twisted, resulting in fitted or out-of-the-body silhouettes that are mixed and woven together.
Mayner's attention to detail is evident in his use of varied textiles, including jersey mimicking woven fabrics or knitted faux fur, which he fits on female bodies to achieve the collection's defining silhouettes, evoking different characters.
In his exploration of form, Mayner highlights clashing contrasts among and within different outfits. For instance, the exaggerated round-shaped shoulders of tailored jackets and capes are contrasted with tight-nipped waists, while pleated pieces in bondage-inspired fabrics have a 'furniture-like' quality.
Mayner's creative journey began in his teenage years, influenced by his creative family. He studied at Paris' Institut Français de la Mode before launching his eponymous brand in 2015, winning the Karl Lagerfeld Prize at the LVMH Prize for Young Designers four years later.
Mayner has unveiled his Made in Italy collections during the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, establishing retail partnerships with renowned boutiques. He has also led the creative direction of the Reebok Ltd. line, showcasing his versatility.
Italy holds a special place in Mayner's heart, as it has been a formative country where he honed his sartorial skills and eventually subverted them. It's also the primary location for his production and where he found partners to structure his company.
The designer's show in Florence feels like a full-circle moment, as he anticipates a positive experience at Pitti Uomo, meeting buyers, collaborators, and his team.
Over the past 11 years, Mayner's brand has grown organically, despite the challenges faced by independent labels in the luxury fashion industry. His business is primarily generated in Asia, with the rest split between Europe and the U.S.
'I'm grateful for what I have, and I want to continue growing, both personally and professionally,' Mayner expressed.
